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                      | It 
                        was 
                          the accident discovery of a letter that led Christoper penn to 
                          reclaim his fascinating ancestral past. Rummaging in the back 
                          of a writing bureau in his surrey home three years ago, he discovered 
                          a letter that had got wedged in the shelving. It was written to 
                          his father, Who had died twelve years earlier, by a Patricia Manders. 
                          The letter Identified her as his father’s cousin. Christoper 
                          had never heared of the lady, but that wasn’t surprising. 
                          His father never spoke about his side of the family to his children.“ 
                          It’s almost as if they never existed,” says Christoper. 
                          “I suspect this was because my grandfather, Harold Penn, 
                          had….ummm….a somewhat colourful life. 
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                      | Voyage 
                        of Discovery
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                      | 
  The 
                        letter launched his on a voyage of discovery. He wrote to Manders 
                        and, a few days latter, received a phone call from her with the 
                        invitation: “why don’t you come and visit me in Weston-Super-Mare?” 
                        It was when he met Manders that he discovered that his great grandfather 
                        – Albert Thomas Watson Penn (1849-1924) – was a leading 
                        and extremely accomplished photographer based in Ootacamund. A 
                        second meeting with Manders, and two other cousins, produced an 
                        obituary of Albert Penn that was published in the South India 
                        Observer. 
 The information came in trickles. A visit to a London antiquarian 
                        turned up a first edition of Edgar Thurston’s “Castes 
                        and Tribes of South India”, which carried Penn’s pictures 
                        on the Todas, Badagas and Kurumbas. More pictures emerged when 
                        Christopher located another first edition of Frederick Price’s 
                        “Ootacumund: A History” . Christopher paid ‘obscene’ 
                        sums for books, but Albert Penn was beginning to acquire a certain 
                        form and character.
 
 “ By then, I was bitten by the bug. I simply had to know 
                        more,” say Christopher, a retired high ranking executive 
                        with Pearson Plc, the publishing group that owns Penguin among 
                        other interests. In 2002, Christopher set out from England to 
                        Ooty with his wife Mary and two relatives. He knew that Albert 
                        Penn was buried at Coonoor’s Tiger Hill cemetery, but it 
                        was shuffling through the church records at Ooty’s St. Stephen’s 
                        which revealed he was married there in 1870 to a woman from Eagan 
                        family, which owned an emporium and a hotel. Albert had come to 
                        India about five or six years earlier as a young lad of 16 and 
                        set up his business as a photographer in Ooty. In the early years, 
                        he would move to the winter months (“where work was more 
                        plentiful,” reckons Christopher), but it was in Ooty where 
                        he established his reputation as a leading photographer shooting 
                        people, landscapes and events such as weddings or the annual meet 
                        of the Ootacumund Hunt.
 
 He left a record of the local tribes, particularly the Todas. 
                        “What distinguishes his portraits from other is the sympathy 
                        and respect with which he appears to hold the sitter. They are 
                        careful compositions and not simply ethnographic studies,” 
                        observes Christopher. An extraordinary collection of pictures 
                        of children was published by the missionary Amy Carmichael in 
                        her book “Lotus Buds” in 1909. Albert traveled from 
                        Ooty to Tirunelveli for the project commissioned by Carmichael, 
                        who noted that the pictures are “much better than we dared 
                        to except” even though the photographer was more accustomed 
                        to the dignified ways of mountains than to the extremely restless 
                        habit of children; and he never could understand why they would 
                        not sit for him as the mountains sat, and let him focus on them 
                        comfortably.”
 
 
 
  Christopher 
                        is interested when told that Amy Carmichael was a passionate environmentalist 
                        even before the terms was invented and that the records of wildlife 
                        sighting kept by her Dohnavur Trust formed the body of material 
                        that helped convert the forests at kalakkad in to a sanctuary 
                        to preserve the lion-tailed macaque. “Is there a picture 
                        of her?” He asks. “I wonder why he traveled so many 
                        miles, taking with him the bulky photographic equipment of the 
                        time, for this assignment.” 
 Back in India to visit Ooty and Chennai for a third time, Christopher 
                        is aware that information related to his project can turn up most 
                        unexpectedly. For instance, he found that great grandfather’s 
                        Cranley cottage and the adjacent building which housed his “Photographic 
                        Gallery” still exist and are now used as the office of a 
                        business family. The Ootacumund Club, of which Albert was the 
                        ‘court photographer’ hadn’t heard of him. But 
                        Christopher found two signed photographer up on the walls after 
                        he was allowed to walk around and have a ‘dekko’.
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                      | Flamboyant 
                        Character |  
                      |  Inevitably, 
                        researching great grandfather threw up facts about grandfather 
                        Harold - the man who Christopher’s father was too embarrassed 
                        to speak about. A flamboyant character, Harold was awarded the 
                        distinguished Conduct Medal for the cavalry charge at Omdurman 
                        in Sudan and served in the 21th Hussars (renamed the Lancers) 
                        in India. He won a small fortune in the Calcutta Derby, but died 
                        in penury after a messy divorce and a troubled life. 
 The information Christopher has collected led him to build a family 
                        tree one hundred and twenty one direct descendants of Albert Penn 
                        survive and Christopher invited them all to his Surrey home for 
                        a party. “Only fifty eight were able to come. But it was 
                        fun,” he says. His aim is to research his great grandfather’s 
                        life and create a comprehensive catalogue of his work. Dose he 
                        plan to spin this out in to a book? “Well, I am not sure 
                        I have enough material on it yet,” he says. “But I 
                        am not ruling it out.”
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